Prior to undertaking this demanding crossing, I read Medigan's popular account of the expedition in a book titled "Crossing The Dead Heart"
The so called "Dead Heart" was the area to the north of Lake Eyre, now known as the Simpson Desert. Cecil Madigan was an explorer, geographer and scientist. In 1939 he organised an scientific expedition, by camel, across the northern part of the Simpson Desert from Andado Station to Birdsville and then south to Lake Eyre and Marree.
The region was originally known as the Arunta Desert and was renamed after A.A.Simpson, the president of the RGSA and sponsor of Medigan's expedition. Simpson died shortly after the expedition's return.
The body of the book is a record of the day to day travel, the scientific activities collecting plant and animal specimens, and the social life of the party. While not detailed enough or an accurate account to conduct a modern trip by, it is a fascinating document from a time when travel was very much harder.
Here is an accurate and shorten list of key points if you plan to make this crossing.
Day Log 1939
25/5/1939 Thursday -
On the Ghan
Departed Adelaide by rail for Abminga at that stage the most
Northern siding for the Ghan line.
Colonel Thomas, manager of the ABC accompanied the scientific party on
the train. Tom Kruse the famous Marree
Mailman boarded at Hawker with a Harry Ding truck loaded with the parties
supplies. Kruse avoided paying his
passenger fee by sleeping in his truck while on the train.
26/5/1939 Friday - On
the Ghan
Travelling on the Ghan all day with a few siding stops.
27/5/1939 Saturday - On
the Coglin Creek near Charlotte Waters
Arrive at 4am at Abminga where they were meet by Fred Sharpe
of Andado and Mr Lowe of Dalhousie. By daylight, Tom Kruse had unloaded his
truck.
Kruse drove the scientific party to Charlotte Waters (by
this stage a deserted telegraph station but some 25 years earlier the location
of a highly acclaimed movie call “The Native Tribes Of Central Australia” by
Gillen and Spencer.).
At Charlotte Waters, the scientific party meet up with Jack,
Nurie, Andy and the 14 camels.
Sharpe arrives later that morning in his camel drawn buggy,
an old ford car minus the engine.
Only days before their arrival, Sharpe found the body of a
dead man at Charlotte Waters and with the assistance of the local police buried
the man near the station in an unmarked grave.
That night the party shot two ducks and cooked coated in mud
as they assumed the natives did. The
myth proved to not cook the ducks to the scientific parties liking but it was
to Andy’s.
A new genus of small fish was found in the creek and named
after Madigan.
28/5/1939 Sunday – Andado
The scientific party drove to Andado with Kruse and
supplies. Travel East via Coglin Creek,
past the junction with Finke River (Just past Sharpes Grave) then North via
Mayfield swamp, Mount Peebles, Mount Day and the Moolta Tablelands.
Bob McDill, the station owner was away but on arrival, the
party was meet by Mr & Mrs Brookes, Fred Sharpes wife “Lady” and daughter
“Storm” and a young boy called “Wal”
Fred Sharpe along with the rest of the party and camels
started to move to Andado. This would take three days.
29/5/1939 Monday - Along
the Finke
The next morning, Madigan arranged to return Col Thomas to
Abminga via the truck and with the scientific parties’ city clothing for
holding and collection at Marree on their return.
On the return trip to Andado with Kruse, Madigan established
camp along the Finke River.
30/5/1939 Tuesday –
Andado
The next morning Madigan explored the table lands around the
Finke River before returning to the Andado station.
That afternoon the camels and other members arrived at
Andado and in the evening McDill arrived with pack horses.
On arrival Jack was disappointed with feed around the
station and moved them several km’s up the valley to find feed.
31/5/1939 Wednesday –
Andado
The party filled the large camel canteens with the good
quality water from the Andado well.
Fletcher arranges a team to collect marsupial mice until dark.
That night when using the wireless, they found three valves
had blown out for no known reason. Extra
valves were arranged to be sent by plane to Oodnadatta and then by train to Abminga. This would delay the departure by three days.
1/6/1939 Thursday – Andado
Set off to the North Bore some 40 km north of Andado via the
truck with Kruse. They meet up with
Jack, Andy, Nurie and the camels as they were locating suitable feed.
The North Bore has a depth of 260m with water laying at 20m
below the surface. The bore water is supplied
by the Great Artesian Basin.
On arrival the windmill and tank was out of action but a
Windlass and sand pump was available to recover water.
Near the bore are the Waddy trees. (Acacia Peuce) McDill had a load of Waddy posts ready for
transporting back to Andado by truck.
That day, a bullock was killed at the station for meat
during the trip. The meat was rubbed with salt and then hung for a couple of
days to drip and dry.
2/6/1939 Friday - Abminga
and Andado
Kruse with his truck, along with Sharpe, Crocker, Fletcher
and McDill would head back to Abminga to wait for wireless valves and pick up
additional petrol. While Crocker and
Fletcher were meant to remain along the Finke to collect specimens they elected
to join the rest and played cards at the fettlers camp.
That day the party saw Ted Colson at Abminga while
collecting his mail for his Blood Creek station. Colson wished the party all the best for
their crossing.
Meanwhile, Madigan and Marshall took photographs of the very
red and tall sand dunes near the station.
3/6/1939 Saturday – Andado
The rest of the party returned from Abminga with wireless
valves. Preparations were made for
departure from Andado the next day.
4/6/1939 Sunday - Camp
at Bore
Departed Andado station via Kruse’s truck for the North
Bore. They meet Jack, Andy, Nurie and
the camels ready to leave.
5/6/1939 Monday - Camp
1
At this stage Kruse departed the explorers wishing them the
best. At the same time they meet an older Aboriginal man named Ly-Ly that would
assist the party to locate water further North
Camp that night was in a very dead area of spinifex and
Mulga.
6/6/1939 Tuesday – Camp
1 – Camp 1A
Headed East to Camp 1A.
Madigan noted the impressive 18m table lands with porcelain type shale.
Around the table lands Buck-Bush and Succulent Munyeroo can
be located. Aranlabure Swamp exists
South of table lands.
Madigan recorded that he could survey the area well from the
top of the table lands and noted the sighting of the Twins or Poodinitterra
Hill and trees along the Todd and Hale River.
7/6/1939 Wednesday - Camp 1A – Camp 2
The party reached the Twins and climbed the most northern
hill where they found a Cairn built by Day in 1915. From the top of the hill the intersection of
the two rivers could be clearly seen.
On route, a hill and bluff where named after Crocker and
Marshall.
The large claypan SW side of the twins is called Djibata.
10km North of the twins they crossed the Todd without
noticing it. The only sign was the
increase in vegetation.
8/6/1939 Thursday – Camp
2
Morning started with collection of specimens. Jack and Madigan set of to locate water.
Andy located widgetty grubs in the local gum trees which can
be detected by the bulge on the trunk the size of a cupped hand. The Grub lives in a small hole just below the
bulge and the entrance is marked with a red stain.
Madigan noted that Ly-Ly was difficult to extract
information from and was concerned that Ly-Ly had forgotten the location of the
soak. Ly-Ly disappeared on a camel at 4:00pam
and returned the next day at 10am with the location of the soak.
9/6/1939 Friday Camp
2 – Camp 3
Madigan arranged Jack to investigate the location of the
soak and returned that afternoon with good news.
That night it rained gently.
10/6/1939 Saturday - Camp
3 to Camp 4
Next morning emu eggs were cooked up for breakfast to Ly-Ly
dismay.
Head northward between the Hale River and the edge of the
tableland until they reached the soak. The
native soak called Allua and the Hale was known to the locals as Allitera. This was to be the last fill up point before
heading East.
The sand was water saturated within a few feet from the
surface. A soak was dug six feet deep
and twenty feet across. Troughs were
made from ground sheets for the camels to drink from.
That night the sky was clear and Madigan could map his
location by the stars
11/6/1939 Sunday - Camp
4 to Camp 5
“The real task of their expedition would begin” The next known watering point was Mudloo Well
in Queensland some 250km East.
They emptied out all of the bore water and topped up all
canteens with water from the soak.
Madigan describes that water as “Beautiful, clear and soft after it had
settled during the night”.
They farewell Ly-Ly who would return to Andado.
It was nearly noon before they started to head East along
the stony tablelands. Much green herbage
was available for the camels at Camp 5.
Tin cans from dinner were fixed to mulga tree as a land mark
indicator.
12/6/1939 Monday –
Camp 5 to Camp 6
The next morning they found themselves traversing sand dunes
and the green herbage was rapidly being replaced by Spinifex. The sand ridges became higher to 15m.
After seventy sand ridges after 6 1/2 hours with the only
vegetation around being dead needle bushes for firewood, Madigan realises the
desert was going to be tough.
13/6/1939 Tuesday –
Camp 6 to Camp 7
Apart from a few tree covered claypans with signs of recent
water, the dunes became taller and softer.
14/6/1939 Wednesday –
Camp 7 to Camp 8
More formidable dunes now around 24m high. At this point no sign of rain as the Spinifex
had not flowered for at least a season.
Camp 8 was again poorly vegetated and little in the way of
good fire wood.
That night rain was threatening and shelter made from large
ground sheets and the camel boxes were erected.
A few of the men made advantage of the shelter for sleeping that night.
15/6/1939 Thursday –
Camp 8
That night 20 points of rain had fallen making things
uncomfortable and unpractical to break camp.
Further scientific work was conducted.
Madigan worked on his first of three national radio
broadcasts that were expected to be given that night but was postponed due to
poor reception.
16/6/1939 Friday -
Camp 8
The rain continued with an inch recorded by noon.
The day was passed by reading books and that night the first
broadcast was completed under a ground sheet.
The rain had cleared that night but it was very overcast the
next day
17/6/1939 Saturday –
Camp 8 to Camp 9
In the morning time was spent in camp drying off camel packs
and other items. During their stay at
Camp 8 they had collected enough water to replace what water had been used.
While travelling they passed a clump of trees between
dunes. During the day, Andy had found a
hole of a marsupial rat. Andy, Fletcher
and others started to dig for the mouse and would catch up with the
camels latter.
The dunes were becoming more irregular and wider on top but
still very tall.
Madigan noted the extraordinarily constant travel rate of
camels at about 2 ½ miles per hour.
A second radio broadcast was schedule and conducted around
7:30pm that night. The diggers did turn
up that night with a story to tell of depth of hole and not rat found.
18/6/1939 Sunday – Camp
9 to Camp 10
The sand dunes were the biggest yet reaching 30m. The camels were starting to show signs of
fatigue. Feed was poor and very
limited. Madigan had considered turning
back but knew heading back was going to be more difficult then going forward. Jack Bejah was keen to off load some of the
equipment and camels to lighten the load.
However Madigan was keen to complete the crossing with all equipment.
A special radio message was sent to A Simpson at Ru Rua
hospital, North Adelaide when party was midway to the Queensland border.
19/6/1939 Monday –
Camp 10 to Camp 11
Early the next day they found a clay soil carpeted with
munyeroo. No waiting for something
better, it was decided that camp would be established and the camels allowed to
feed on the munyeroo (Pig-face).
Around the area they discovered nodules of ironstone and
chalcedony (flint for tools) and former presence of aboriginals. It was clear that aboriginals would travel
down south in this area if the season was good.
The claypan near the camp had a couple of inches of water
and was used to have a hot wash.
The tension that had be building over the past few days was
now relieved with water supplies topped up and the camels having a good feed.
20/6/1939 Tuesday-
Camp 11 to Camp 12
Madigan headed North East to locate some of the claypans
that he mapped from the air in 1927.
Soon they passed through a grove of Gidgee and green herbage was bore
evident.
Madigan came across a number of smaller claypans but failed
to locate the larger claypan as expected.
The dunes now only 9m high and easy to cross. Many of the dunes had wattles growing on
them.
21/6/1939 Wednesday –
Camp 12 to Camp 13
Travelled well with the last of the radio broadcast due that
night. Madigan had Andy the aboriginal
say a few words and then sing a corroboree song followed by Jack.
22/6/1939 Thursday - Camp
13 to Camp 14
Travelled well during the day with that night’s radio
message being messages from the P.M.G. via Harry Ding at Yanta. Everone received mail except for Andy whereby
a message was fabricated to please Andy.
23/6/1939 Friday –
Camp 14 to Camp 15
The day was short with the Hay River being found. Winnecke in 1883 travelled down the Hay River
within 8 km of their location.
Crocker shot bush turkey for dinner that night.
Found evidence of Aboriginals travelling down the Hay in
good seasons with flint tools.
A fourth radio broadcast was made with everyone except for
Andy and Jack to give a one minute talk.
24/6/1939 Saturday –
Camp 15 to Camp 16
Travelled about 16km down the Hay River. The river was of a sandy valley between dunes
that was full of trees (Box Gums) and shrubs.
Noted rocky outcrops of shale along the Hay River
25/6/1939 Sunday –
Camp 16
At camp 16, Madigan blazed the largest tree with “M” over
“39”
Simpson had dropped his knife somewhere along the river the
day before. Andy headed back and found
the knife.
26/6/1939 Monday –
Camp 16 to Camp 17
Madigan was keen to locate and cross the rabbit-proof fence
on the Queensland border this day. The
dunes started to increase again to 15m and the Spinifex was very dense.
Womma snake was located and handled by all in the
party.
Sturt turned back south around this point in 1845
Sunset that night no sign of the fence was located but
Madigan found out later that this section was not fenced.
27/6/1939 Tuesday –
Camp 17 to Camp 18
Madigan now made plans
to head for Kaliduwarry Station (Near camp 20) via the Mudloo Well.
28/6/1939 Wednesday –
Camp 18 to Camp 19
Arrived at Camp 19 being the last desert camp on the
Mulligan range. Camped in a grove of gidgee trees
29/6/1939 Thursday –
Camp 19 to Camp 20
Early that morning the rabbit fence was located now forming
the boundary of the Queensland Simpson NP.
A large N-S claypan was crossed. The country became very flat with dry swamps.
Camp was established near a claypan on the Mulligan / Eyre
River. The Kuddaree Waterhole was found
to have water
It started to rain again that would continue during the
night
30/6/1939 Friday –
Camp 20
The day continued with rain preventing any travel.
A boundary rider’s hut was located on a high sand ridge
besides the fence near the camp. About
1.5 miles east of the camp they found the remains of the old Kaliduwarry
Station.
That night at Camp 20 a radio message was sent to A Simpson
and the men’s family stating that they had reached the Mulligan and that the
crossing was over.
1/7/1939 Saturday –
Camp 20 to Camp 21
The day was fine and everything was spread out to dry while
everyone bathed and shaved.
The going was wet and slippery delaying their expected
progress to the Annandale Station.
It started to rain again and it was decided to set up camp
just north of the Annandale Station.
2/7/1939 Sunday –
Camp 21
Confined to camp as the rain gently but steadily fell.
3/7/1939 Monday –
Camp 21 to Camp 22
Next morning was foggy but the rain had stopped. The Annandale Station Kidman Property) was
located and a sad ruin amid signs of former prosperity.
Their was a drilling plant located near the station and
stock yards further south and near camp 22.
4/7/1939 Tuesday –
Camp 22 to Camp 23
The day started off very cold and the sand ridges were now
very high and separated by plains a mile or more wide.
Camp 23 was established and by 9:00 the sky had cleared.
5/7/1939 Wednesday –
Camp 23 to Camp 24
Cattle were now sighted and a nest of emu eggs found for
breakfast
6/7/1939 Thursday –
Camp 24 to Camp 25 (Birdsville Pub)
On entering the Birdsville area the Waddi trees could be
seen and Birdsville was in flood.
At 4:00pm the camels stop at the Birdsville pub whereby the
party was met by the towns people and leading citizens.
While the Birdsville Pub indicated the crossing of the
Simpson Desert, it would be another 26 camps (Camp 51) until they reached the
end of the trip down to Marree on the 9th August 1939. Madigan was back in Adelaide on the following
day the 10th August 1939.
Simpson & Marshall leave party at Birdsville due to
Madigan’s regimental discipline. Andy
remained in Birdsville for short while courting a Birdsville Aboriginal Lady.
It took them 25 days to reach Birdsville and at times the anxiety over food and water supplies, for themselves and the camels, is quite clear, as is the relief when Birdsville came within reach. Ironically, some delays were experienced from rain which made loading camels unwise and, later, water around Lake Eyre made some crossings of usually dry river beds hazardous for camels. Marree was reached on day 51.
Check out the 4X4 Magazine article on our crossing. Click Hear
For the complete trip document with fuel usage or to watch the 1939 expedition movie, go to http://faf.kay.id.au/Documents
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